The last two days at work have been quite satisfying - actually doing some proper training to some proper delegates, rather than just keeping an eye on other people training. I was told to expect a group of delegates who had already had a week's worth of training in our e-learning developer, but instead was told that they'd all moved on to new roles so I had some fresh raw recruits. Wonderful. So instead of a 2-day refresher I had to do the full "start from the beginning" version. It went fine and the delegates seemed delighted with me and the system (warm fuzzy feeling inside now) and once they get it up and running on their live IDs rather than just the training one we used this week, I hope it all goes smoothly for them.
After work I've managed to do a bit of shopping, en route back to the hotel each night. Janpath yesterday to pick up the Choli (Sari blouse) that I'd given to a tailor to make up, tonight I went to Haldiram's for Indian sweets (yummy) for the RTO concert and others, plus a brief stop in Connaught Place - THE big hub of New Delhi. India Gate may be the "landscape" hub, but CP is the shopping hub. Last time I was in Delhi we stopped briefly in CP to find lunch and look at shops, but it seemed horrendously busy as the whole centre (actually quite open) was being dug up for some reason, and all the traffic was massively crammed in. It just looked shabby and dusty and not very impressive. This time, I've been to CP twice, both times at night, and it is much improved. Not busy, lots of shops which look worth a visit (although no time for them this trip, really) and not too many panhandlers. Hanna and I did make impulse-purchases of plastic Auto Rickshaw cars with pull-back action. Yippee!
The final minutes of my Internet access are counting down, so anything more I write will be from home.
Goodbye again India!
PS - on my way back to the hotel from work tonight I got a call from my manager - would I be able to do another short trip to Mumbai before the end of December? Decision time.
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Final stage of the Road Trip
On the way out of Agra we stopped off at Sikandra, Emperor Akbar's tomb. 
On my previous road trip a year ago we had been stopped from going into Sikandra by The Guide - just had to peer through the railings. This time it was nice to go inside and see what I missed.
The contrast with other tombs is impressive. It's very simple, calm and almost minimal.
Except for this bit of ornamentation, at the entrance to the tomb. 
Also unusual was the fact that we could actually go down to his tomb, which was a fairly simple white marble tomb in a huge open, dark room with plain white walls and the dome ceiling, with an impressive echo. There's just one light, an elaborate metal lamp all cut out prettily. No photos inside.
Walking around the outside of the tomb we saw that one of the 4 gates is falling into ruin. Strange, considering that the others are apparently well maintained.
The parkland around the tomb within the walls is considerably below the level of the paths and deer graze.
And monkeys frolic:
Then we got back on the road home. We stopped at the Maharaja's Hotel - same as the last trip I did. 
Very disconcertingly our driver decided not to drive past the place then double back at the next suitable u-turn point in the road (there was a central reservation). Instead he transferred over to the other side of the road BEFORE the restaurant, and drove for half a mile or so the wrong way down the dual carriageway. Hanna and I just sat and looked at the road ahead in stunned silence. It's so Wrong that doing that isn't unusual over here. But I can't see how they can change - the rules have been bent so far over the years that they've broken now.
It's very hard to get traffic photos as generally a motorcyclist or cyclist or camel will get in the way. I got this one of a load of lorries though:
All the lorries (mostly) are the same size and shape. They are all hand-painted rather than professionally lettered and most of them also get decked out in tinsel and flowers and dangly tassels.
The final photo I took of the weekend was this - I've been trying to get a good shot of a gas man every time I've been in India - and finally spotted a good one whilst we were waiting at some traffic lights. Result!
We got back to Delhi in daylight, and then went out for a quick shopping trip to Janpath and Connaught Place. As we had said goodbye to the driver (with a tip) we caught an autorickshaw for the short trip. Which was fine and surprisingly not scary. Either we are desensitised to danger now or there is something reassuring about sitting in a tiny metal and fabric scooter edging through the rush hour traffic.
We caught the rickshaw there and ended up just walking back. In the dark. Down an unpavemented road past a political gathering (not a demonstration and definitely nothing near a riot, but still we walked past on the other side). Hotel, unpack, cup-a-soup, bed.
On my previous road trip a year ago we had been stopped from going into Sikandra by The Guide - just had to peer through the railings. This time it was nice to go inside and see what I missed.
The contrast with other tombs is impressive. It's very simple, calm and almost minimal.
Except for this bit of ornamentation, at the entrance to the tomb. 
Also unusual was the fact that we could actually go down to his tomb, which was a fairly simple white marble tomb in a huge open, dark room with plain white walls and the dome ceiling, with an impressive echo. There's just one light, an elaborate metal lamp all cut out prettily. No photos inside.Walking around the outside of the tomb we saw that one of the 4 gates is falling into ruin. Strange, considering that the others are apparently well maintained.
The parkland around the tomb within the walls is considerably below the level of the paths and deer graze.
And monkeys frolic:
Then we got back on the road home. We stopped at the Maharaja's Hotel - same as the last trip I did. 
Very disconcertingly our driver decided not to drive past the place then double back at the next suitable u-turn point in the road (there was a central reservation). Instead he transferred over to the other side of the road BEFORE the restaurant, and drove for half a mile or so the wrong way down the dual carriageway. Hanna and I just sat and looked at the road ahead in stunned silence. It's so Wrong that doing that isn't unusual over here. But I can't see how they can change - the rules have been bent so far over the years that they've broken now.It's very hard to get traffic photos as generally a motorcyclist or cyclist or camel will get in the way. I got this one of a load of lorries though:
All the lorries (mostly) are the same size and shape. They are all hand-painted rather than professionally lettered and most of them also get decked out in tinsel and flowers and dangly tassels.The final photo I took of the weekend was this - I've been trying to get a good shot of a gas man every time I've been in India - and finally spotted a good one whilst we were waiting at some traffic lights. Result!
We got back to Delhi in daylight, and then went out for a quick shopping trip to Janpath and Connaught Place. As we had said goodbye to the driver (with a tip) we caught an autorickshaw for the short trip. Which was fine and surprisingly not scary. Either we are desensitised to danger now or there is something reassuring about sitting in a tiny metal and fabric scooter edging through the rush hour traffic.We caught the rickshaw there and ended up just walking back. In the dark. Down an unpavemented road past a political gathering (not a demonstration and definitely nothing near a riot, but still we walked past on the other side). Hotel, unpack, cup-a-soup, bed.
More Agra
We had breakfast, packed and checked out of the Trident Hilton. Our next stop was the Red Fort in Agra. Dodged the guides and went around by ourselves.
This room is where Shah Jahan, who had the Taj Mahal built when his wife died in childbirth, was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb. The cruel irony is that is has a fantastic view over the river to the Taj Mahal. 
This room is where Shah Jahan, who had the Taj Mahal built when his wife died in childbirth, was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb. The cruel irony is that is has a fantastic view over the river to the Taj Mahal. 
Taj Mahal
We arrived in Agra in the early evening, just as the sun set. We had a moment of concern as Hanna read her guidebook which said that the Taj Mahal is closed on Mondays (argh!) but the driver reassured us that it was talking rubbish and it was actually closed on Fridays (makes more sense). Book goes down in our estimation (I'd thought it was a good one before).
Too tired after early mornings to do anything in the evening beyond dinner, showers and an early night, with a quick call back home which was lovely even if I did manage to mess up.
Well before dawn on Monday morning, we dragged ourselves out of our beds and I made use of the time difference to call back to the UK properly for a short chat. We met the driver at the appointed time (5.45am!!!) and drove the km or so to the Taj Mahal parking lot, where we contracted a cycle rickshaw (actually the driver did the negotiations, we just got on and held on tight). I wondered if I should have lent him my cycle light (I brought it so I could see the pietra dura inside the mausoleum - there are some amazing marbles which glow when you shine a torch directly on them).
We bought our tickets (Rs 750) and went through the security scanners. You can't take anything electrical apart from cameras in the complex. Mobile phones etc. are definite no-nos. Also no food or drink except the bottle of water that they give you with your ticket (and you need the shoe covers too which are rubbish but save you having to take off your shoes when the marble is early-morning chilly or mid-day sizzling).
Photos:
Sun rising.
Yamuna river very early (boatman being picturesque):
Lawn roller or spiker or something: 
Pod People with green feet:
This guy was very keen to get the perfect shot... I don't think it worked though.
In case anyone was in any doubt, the Mausoleum is the Taj Mahal, and it's pretty big and white and has domes on it and generally everyone around is pointing their cameras at it:
One of many "money shots":
And another one: 
And another one: 
Hanna and I were pretty efficient at swapping cameras so we each ended up of photos of the other quite consistently.
During this bit, we got mobbed by a group of young Indian men who wanted to have their photos taken with us and the Taj Mahal. Well actually I drifted to one side and started taking photos of Hanna being mobbed (sorry Hanna!)
Overall we probably posed for 15 photos in the same place. At least we got out before this lot arrived:
The gate house:
We left and did a little bit of shopping (resisted urge to spend money on tourist things) and then found our rickshaw driver:
and headed back to the hotel. It's had a makeover since last time (the lobby and bar anyway).
Too tired after early mornings to do anything in the evening beyond dinner, showers and an early night, with a quick call back home which was lovely even if I did manage to mess up.
Well before dawn on Monday morning, we dragged ourselves out of our beds and I made use of the time difference to call back to the UK properly for a short chat. We met the driver at the appointed time (5.45am!!!) and drove the km or so to the Taj Mahal parking lot, where we contracted a cycle rickshaw (actually the driver did the negotiations, we just got on and held on tight). I wondered if I should have lent him my cycle light (I brought it so I could see the pietra dura inside the mausoleum - there are some amazing marbles which glow when you shine a torch directly on them).
We bought our tickets (Rs 750) and went through the security scanners. You can't take anything electrical apart from cameras in the complex. Mobile phones etc. are definite no-nos. Also no food or drink except the bottle of water that they give you with your ticket (and you need the shoe covers too which are rubbish but save you having to take off your shoes when the marble is early-morning chilly or mid-day sizzling).
Photos:
Sun rising.
Yamuna river very early (boatman being picturesque):
Lawn roller or spiker or something: 
Pod People with green feet:
This guy was very keen to get the perfect shot... I don't think it worked though.
In case anyone was in any doubt, the Mausoleum is the Taj Mahal, and it's pretty big and white and has domes on it and generally everyone around is pointing their cameras at it:
One of many "money shots":
And another one: 
And another one: 
Hanna and I were pretty efficient at swapping cameras so we each ended up of photos of the other quite consistently.During this bit, we got mobbed by a group of young Indian men who wanted to have their photos taken with us and the Taj Mahal. Well actually I drifted to one side and started taking photos of Hanna being mobbed (sorry Hanna!)
Overall we probably posed for 15 photos in the same place. At least we got out before this lot arrived:
The gate house:
We left and did a little bit of shopping (resisted urge to spend money on tourist things) and then found our rickshaw driver:
and headed back to the hotel. It's had a makeover since last time (the lobby and bar anyway).
Fatehpur Sikri
Abandoned Mughal city - lovely red sandstone and the sun setting.
See last year for comments! (India 2005 blog)
See last year for comments! (India 2005 blog)
Jaipur to Agra
Another day, another road trip. After our stop at Royal Gaitor, we headed onto the road to Agra.
Not my favourite road.
It was technically a dual carriageway, for at least some of the distance (about 200km in total), but the sort without much in the way of road markings or anything in the way of a central reservation. And a lot of really really bad road surface.
It's not the narrowness or the unmarkedness or even the bumpyness - it's the fact that despite all the -ness, the drivers of all the modes of transport on the road refuse to make any accommodation for that fact.
Calm, breathe, try not to squeak as we miss another lorry by a few inches.
And no matter how unpleasant the drive, it was humbling as ever to look at the homes by the side of the road.
After we left Fatehpur Sikri (en route to Agra) we went past a road accident. A Jeep had hit a motorbike and I think the rider died. I try not to think of the image of him lying on the road. What was also scary was to consider the option that he wasn't actually dead, but that all the bystanders were just standing there watching, not doing anything to help. The ambulance was en route but the traffic was heavy. These roads are cruel and I wish they weren't.
Not my favourite road.
It was technically a dual carriageway, for at least some of the distance (about 200km in total), but the sort without much in the way of road markings or anything in the way of a central reservation. And a lot of really really bad road surface.
It's not the narrowness or the unmarkedness or even the bumpyness - it's the fact that despite all the -ness, the drivers of all the modes of transport on the road refuse to make any accommodation for that fact.
Calm, breathe, try not to squeak as we miss another lorry by a few inches.
And no matter how unpleasant the drive, it was humbling as ever to look at the homes by the side of the road.
After we left Fatehpur Sikri (en route to Agra) we went past a road accident. A Jeep had hit a motorbike and I think the rider died. I try not to think of the image of him lying on the road. What was also scary was to consider the option that he wasn't actually dead, but that all the bystanders were just standing there watching, not doing anything to help. The ambulance was en route but the traffic was heavy. These roads are cruel and I wish they weren't.
Am(b)er Fort
Early morning (earlier than yesterday) as the driver recommended that we get to Amber Fort early to bag a place in the queue for elephants. The "b" is silent, apparently in Amber.
It's about 10k outside Jaipur but the roads were relatively clear - apart from a few late-arriving elephants - they have to walk from Jaipur every morning, and they knock off at lunchtime apparently so they don't wear out.
We stopped by the side of the road to see the view across the "lake":
Then queued up (not very long - good advice from the driver. We got there at about 8.10am and queued for about 10 mins - by which time the queue was about 3 times as long) and clambered aboard our elephant. Luckily for dignity they have a high platform you can easily step aboard from.
Then up it climbed. It was a fixed price (good - no haggling - at least until it came to the tip) and although it was rather bumpy we didn't fall off.
As we were both onboard this was the best picture I could take of "me on an elephant":
Although we did buy pictures taken by touts which turned out OK. Not scanned in yet of course.
At the top they deposited us on another high platform where the elephants would then pose for photos again.
Amber Fort is very beautiful - many elegant shapes and pretty gardens.
(with a view up to another fort higher up the hill - we didn't go up there as we had a long way to go later in the day).
Entrance gate:
A hall of mirrors:
View over the courtyard with the elephants:
Central courtyard:
Some mad scaffolding with workers perching:
And finally, a view of the remaining lake (it's not that long after the monsoon, will be very very dry by May).
It's about 10k outside Jaipur but the roads were relatively clear - apart from a few late-arriving elephants - they have to walk from Jaipur every morning, and they knock off at lunchtime apparently so they don't wear out.
We stopped by the side of the road to see the view across the "lake":
Then queued up (not very long - good advice from the driver. We got there at about 8.10am and queued for about 10 mins - by which time the queue was about 3 times as long) and clambered aboard our elephant. Luckily for dignity they have a high platform you can easily step aboard from.
Then up it climbed. It was a fixed price (good - no haggling - at least until it came to the tip) and although it was rather bumpy we didn't fall off.As we were both onboard this was the best picture I could take of "me on an elephant":
Although we did buy pictures taken by touts which turned out OK. Not scanned in yet of course.At the top they deposited us on another high platform where the elephants would then pose for photos again.
Amber Fort is very beautiful - many elegant shapes and pretty gardens.
(with a view up to another fort higher up the hill - we didn't go up there as we had a long way to go later in the day).Entrance gate:
A hall of mirrors:
View over the courtyard with the elephants:
Central courtyard:
Some mad scaffolding with workers perching:
And finally, a view of the remaining lake (it's not that long after the monsoon, will be very very dry by May).
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
