I encountered a useful new word when talking to one of the Indian trainers - in the context that she was trying to prevent her trainees from using it because it doesn't actually exist in British English. But it should, by all logical rules, be a word, and I think it could be quite useful.
If you delay something, or change the date to a later date, you postpone it.
So why, if you bring something forward from the original planned date, can't you prepone it?
Monday, December 18, 2006
Thursday, December 14, 2006
Last Day?
Today is my last full day in India. I've probably said that 3 times now, and so far I've been proved wrong each time. In Mumbai in June, I thought that there would be no more opportunities for me to come out. Last month in Delhi I really thought it was my last time, but as you can read, I was proved wrong at the 11th hour. This time, I feel I may not be wrong. The project is winding down and we have our official team "wrap" party next Wednesday. Never say never though, stranger things have happened.
I like coming out for short trips (although perhaps 2 1/2 days is pushing the "short" definition to its minimum limit), as I get a chance to experience the challenge and the variety and the different culture, but don't have to settle down to the long haul and deal with homesickness (much) or life moving on without me back home.
It's tough to stay in touch when there's a 5 1/2 hour time difference, without one person keeping extremely antisocial hours. And going away for short trips (longest so far has been 3 weeks) means that I don't need to worry too much about watering plants, sorting out "vacant property" buildings insurance or dealing with post that arrives and needs immediate action. Admittedly I have come home to water leaks from the flat upstairs the last two times I've been away, but that would surely have happened anyway, and wasn't particularly exacerbated by my absences.
So today I had to do an "early" shift. 9-5ish. Early? Not particularly, unless you convert it into GMT, which makes it 03.30 - 11.30 - which is just plain wrong. Normally, on a longer trip, I'd get onto IST pretty fast then the early time wouldn't bother me: this time, I'm trying not to get onto IST too much as I just have to get off it on Saturday (and go to the team night out in Edinburgh which will mean a late night). But having to set my (GMT) mobile alarm to 01.30am last night was rather disturbing. I made it though, and actually met one of my colleagues going to bed this morning (around 8.15am) as I was leaving for work. A contingent had gone to the Orchid Karaoke bar after the restaurant, with Hilarious Consequences, evidently.
Work was good - I got everything done I wanted to and I think that the delegates have demonstrated their new skills. They gave me presents when I left, which was lovely, and so did one of my previous delegates too (I'd trained her back in the UK in April). So I now have two nice new Indian bags to use.
Got back to the hotel, did a bit of admin and then wandered up to the Club Lounge to catch up with colleagues who had had the day off before their flights home tonight. I had commissioned one of them to pick up some XXXXXX for me, that I'd seen in Delhi and regretted not having bought. Can't disclose the purchase at this time as the recipient(s) may be reading! So I ordered a drink, had some canapes, had some nice chat with various co-workers (all female, oddly) and generally enjoyed my last evening in India. There are some lovely people here at the moment, and (unusually, compared to previous trips) a significant number of them are mature women, who can gossip and chat and generally have a good sociable evening on a range of topics. Lovely. Then we all headed back to our rooms to pack and generally prepare ourselves for the journey ahead.
I'll miss India, but I think I've had my fair share now and although I'm very sad not to have the prospect of seeing some of the friends I've made again, I think I can move on without regret and see what happens next. Novosibirsk?!!*
I like coming out for short trips (although perhaps 2 1/2 days is pushing the "short" definition to its minimum limit), as I get a chance to experience the challenge and the variety and the different culture, but don't have to settle down to the long haul and deal with homesickness (much) or life moving on without me back home.
It's tough to stay in touch when there's a 5 1/2 hour time difference, without one person keeping extremely antisocial hours. And going away for short trips (longest so far has been 3 weeks) means that I don't need to worry too much about watering plants, sorting out "vacant property" buildings insurance or dealing with post that arrives and needs immediate action. Admittedly I have come home to water leaks from the flat upstairs the last two times I've been away, but that would surely have happened anyway, and wasn't particularly exacerbated by my absences.
So today I had to do an "early" shift. 9-5ish. Early? Not particularly, unless you convert it into GMT, which makes it 03.30 - 11.30 - which is just plain wrong. Normally, on a longer trip, I'd get onto IST pretty fast then the early time wouldn't bother me: this time, I'm trying not to get onto IST too much as I just have to get off it on Saturday (and go to the team night out in Edinburgh which will mean a late night). But having to set my (GMT) mobile alarm to 01.30am last night was rather disturbing. I made it though, and actually met one of my colleagues going to bed this morning (around 8.15am) as I was leaving for work. A contingent had gone to the Orchid Karaoke bar after the restaurant, with Hilarious Consequences, evidently.
Work was good - I got everything done I wanted to and I think that the delegates have demonstrated their new skills. They gave me presents when I left, which was lovely, and so did one of my previous delegates too (I'd trained her back in the UK in April). So I now have two nice new Indian bags to use.
Got back to the hotel, did a bit of admin and then wandered up to the Club Lounge to catch up with colleagues who had had the day off before their flights home tonight. I had commissioned one of them to pick up some XXXXXX for me, that I'd seen in Delhi and regretted not having bought. Can't disclose the purchase at this time as the recipient(s) may be reading! So I ordered a drink, had some canapes, had some nice chat with various co-workers (all female, oddly) and generally enjoyed my last evening in India. There are some lovely people here at the moment, and (unusually, compared to previous trips) a significant number of them are mature women, who can gossip and chat and generally have a good sociable evening on a range of topics. Lovely. Then we all headed back to our rooms to pack and generally prepare ourselves for the journey ahead.
I'll miss India, but I think I've had my fair share now and although I'm very sad not to have the prospect of seeing some of the friends I've made again, I think I can move on without regret and see what happens next. Novosibirsk?!!*
Actually quite busy
Lateish start today (Wednesday) - doing a 12-8 training shift. This means leaving at 11.15 to get there in time, but because there wasn't another car going at that time I left at 10.45 - arriving slightly early but that's No Bad Thing. I was a little concerned and distressed by the anti-Indian comments being made by my travelling companions - quite negative about their abilities and lifestyle - opinions not matched by their colleagues, which is a relief. Perhaps they were jaded and fed up of being here for weeks/months on end, but I felt it was very sad that they felt that way and were here to help the agents improve. Also they were making the comments in front of the Indian driver, which although his English probably doesn't meet any fluency standards, must have picked up a bit of what they were saying. "He who is without sin..." / "People in glass houses...". The UK isn't perfect either so don't pick on less developed countries. It's mean.
I had a good day training - my delegates were quick and keen to learn and we covered a lot. They had already had an introduction to the subject (designing e-learning packages) but this was a more advanced polishing course. So we had a good facilitation session rather than a boring didactic one. They had a nice big whiteboard and (oh I'm easily pleased) a board wiper which is magnetic and sticks to the board(!) so I had fun with that all day. I had lugged a company laptop for 4000 miles but in the end it wasn't needed. We buddied up and they all had a go at the system.
Most of the staff who have been out here long term are heading back early Friday morning, so they have Thursday off to shop/pack. So tonight was the last night in the office for many of them, at least for a few weeks. Hence the decision to head off to a local Indian restaurant for a team party. It was a dry restaurant (and therefore perhaps not as popular as it could have been), but we sat outside so the smokers amongst us were placated a little. We got there about 9.45pm and didn't start to order until about 10.30pm as other people were arriving still from later shifts. When we did get our food, it was all quite messed up as we were failing to comply with Indian rules of dining and just sharing everything, instead everyone wanted their Own Food. My starter didn't turn up, and then the main course that I got was different to someone else's version of the same dish. Odd. Rather tasty though, and excellent value at about Rs500 each (£5.50 ish?) for 2 courses and non-alcoholic drinks. Eventually we left at about 12.30pm, after singing Happy Birthday to Sheetal, (offshore manager) and then working out which car to get home.
Despite the late hour, the traffic was still horrible - really heavy for some parts of the trip (although practically empty elsewhere) so didn't get back to the hotel until 1am (posting this on Thursday with an edited time/date) and then I had to get up 5 hours later to get to work for 9am. Busy busy.
I had a good day training - my delegates were quick and keen to learn and we covered a lot. They had already had an introduction to the subject (designing e-learning packages) but this was a more advanced polishing course. So we had a good facilitation session rather than a boring didactic one. They had a nice big whiteboard and (oh I'm easily pleased) a board wiper which is magnetic and sticks to the board(!) so I had fun with that all day. I had lugged a company laptop for 4000 miles but in the end it wasn't needed. We buddied up and they all had a go at the system.
Most of the staff who have been out here long term are heading back early Friday morning, so they have Thursday off to shop/pack. So tonight was the last night in the office for many of them, at least for a few weeks. Hence the decision to head off to a local Indian restaurant for a team party. It was a dry restaurant (and therefore perhaps not as popular as it could have been), but we sat outside so the smokers amongst us were placated a little. We got there about 9.45pm and didn't start to order until about 10.30pm as other people were arriving still from later shifts. When we did get our food, it was all quite messed up as we were failing to comply with Indian rules of dining and just sharing everything, instead everyone wanted their Own Food. My starter didn't turn up, and then the main course that I got was different to someone else's version of the same dish. Odd. Rather tasty though, and excellent value at about Rs500 each (£5.50 ish?) for 2 courses and non-alcoholic drinks. Eventually we left at about 12.30pm, after singing Happy Birthday to Sheetal, (offshore manager) and then working out which car to get home.
Despite the late hour, the traffic was still horrible - really heavy for some parts of the trip (although practically empty elsewhere) so didn't get back to the hotel until 1am (posting this on Thursday with an edited time/date) and then I had to get up 5 hours later to get to work for 9am. Busy busy.
Tuesday, December 12, 2006
Mumbai Take 2
I've been up non-stop (well not counting a few hours of dozing on the plane en route) for about 30 hours now, so I'm just trying to stay up a little longer to make a proper night's sleep tonight and try to trick Jetlag into passing me by. Tomorrow I have to get a car at 10.45am to go to the office.
I left yesterday afternoon, on a bouncy BA shuttle to LHR. Alas they wouldn't check my bag through (unlike last time) so I had to go through the rigmarole of waiting for my bag, going through the Underground tunnel then queueing for check in. As I travelled Premiere Class I got to skip most of the queues, including an astonishing 10deep/200m long one for security at LHR Terminal 3. Avoid that area at about 7pm on weekdays, I think. Lots of big intercontinental flights leaving at once, probably.
Anyway, once I'd passed into the hands of Jet Airways, the trip became much more pleasurable. Sybaritic.
I had a sociable seat partner (Mike from Stirling, works for some finance company, travels to Mumbai quarterly) who is doing a similarly crazy 3-day visit (actually his is crazier as he comes back on Thursday night, I at least have a night's sleep before the return journey on Friday) who liked hill walking and talked about his wife's rules for letting him out on the hills (one day a month, unless she gets to go too). Anyway, he stopped talking when the lights were dimmed, and I managed to get a few hours official doze. I changed into the inflight pyjamas, which were very comfortable ( I was tempted to pinch them but resisted the urge). I watched a film (the Break Up) which was moderately entertaining, if unrealistic (fabulous apartment in Chicago funded by jobs as a tour guide and an assistant in an art gallery) and had Beautiful People looking Beautiful.
The plane arrived beautifully on time, I was early off the plane and (for once!) so was my baggage. I found my driver (from the hotel) without any problems and about 30 mins after the plane touched down, I was checking into my room. Whew. I have a welcome letter from the hotel which informs me that I get free stuff. Like Internet access, apparently. And Happy Hours at The Club until 9pm nightly (food, drink = supper). And 4 free bits of laundry. I'll have to think about that. Probably will prioritise cold weather kit, for the return leg.
Then I went to the office for a few hours (3) to get ready for training tomorrow, and get all the tedious (not really!) reunions with old friends out of the way. I have brought with me bribes of Shortbread and Tunnock's Tea Cakes, so I'm guaranteed to have a stream of visitors into the training room tomorrow!
I stopped off at the local supermarket (Haiko's) on the way home for supplies to take home, made a phone call (I love Skype!) and then availed myself of the freebies in the Club Lounge for Happy Hour. hic. And now it's probably time to sleep. (20h40)
I left yesterday afternoon, on a bouncy BA shuttle to LHR. Alas they wouldn't check my bag through (unlike last time) so I had to go through the rigmarole of waiting for my bag, going through the Underground tunnel then queueing for check in. As I travelled Premiere Class I got to skip most of the queues, including an astonishing 10deep/200m long one for security at LHR Terminal 3. Avoid that area at about 7pm on weekdays, I think. Lots of big intercontinental flights leaving at once, probably.
Anyway, once I'd passed into the hands of Jet Airways, the trip became much more pleasurable. Sybaritic.
I had a sociable seat partner (Mike from Stirling, works for some finance company, travels to Mumbai quarterly) who is doing a similarly crazy 3-day visit (actually his is crazier as he comes back on Thursday night, I at least have a night's sleep before the return journey on Friday) who liked hill walking and talked about his wife's rules for letting him out on the hills (one day a month, unless she gets to go too). Anyway, he stopped talking when the lights were dimmed, and I managed to get a few hours official doze. I changed into the inflight pyjamas, which were very comfortable ( I was tempted to pinch them but resisted the urge). I watched a film (the Break Up) which was moderately entertaining, if unrealistic (fabulous apartment in Chicago funded by jobs as a tour guide and an assistant in an art gallery) and had Beautiful People looking Beautiful.
The plane arrived beautifully on time, I was early off the plane and (for once!) so was my baggage. I found my driver (from the hotel) without any problems and about 30 mins after the plane touched down, I was checking into my room. Whew. I have a welcome letter from the hotel which informs me that I get free stuff. Like Internet access, apparently. And Happy Hours at The Club until 9pm nightly (food, drink = supper). And 4 free bits of laundry. I'll have to think about that. Probably will prioritise cold weather kit, for the return leg.
Then I went to the office for a few hours (3) to get ready for training tomorrow, and get all the tedious (not really!) reunions with old friends out of the way. I have brought with me bribes of Shortbread and Tunnock's Tea Cakes, so I'm guaranteed to have a stream of visitors into the training room tomorrow!
I stopped off at the local supermarket (Haiko's) on the way home for supplies to take home, made a phone call (I love Skype!) and then availed myself of the freebies in the Club Lounge for Happy Hour. hic. And now it's probably time to sleep. (20h40)
Where am I?
I'm in a country where...
...the word "kindly" has apparently replaced the word "please".
...a tabloid-like newspaper will use the word succubus (in connection with Paris Hilton) without flinching
...it's only just starting to be "an issue" not to wear a helmet when on a motorbike ("2 boys killed in 90kmph m/c smash")
...a family of 3 can be killed by a car while cooking.
...bedraggled teenagers with a babe in arms will knock on the car window at traffic lights. And keep knocking, despite 100% negative body language that "you will NOT be getting anything from this car's occupants".
...your carrier bags at the supermarket are counted by the bag packer, recorded on your receipt, and then 10 yards further on they are counted again by the security guard and the receipt stamped with "delivered".
..."fairness" creams outsell tanning creams by infinity %
...Bryan Adams Rock Anthems play in supermarkets, swiftly followed by a bit of Bhangra.
...babies play on the central reservations of dual carriageways without being carted off by social services.
...slums spring up 20 yards from 5 * international hotels.
..."Health & Safety" is something for someone else to worry about. Now let me get on with welding this thing right over some agent's head, standing in bare feet on a metal ladder.
...the cleaning company pays its staff to wash the ornamental pebbles inside the office (gather them up, dunk them in a bucket, put them back again).
...in a free association test, "World Cup" means cricket not foopball.
Yes, I'm in India again. Now, and for 3 days only.
...the word "kindly" has apparently replaced the word "please".
...a tabloid-like newspaper will use the word succubus (in connection with Paris Hilton) without flinching
...it's only just starting to be "an issue" not to wear a helmet when on a motorbike ("2 boys killed in 90kmph m/c smash")
...a family of 3 can be killed by a car while cooking.
...bedraggled teenagers with a babe in arms will knock on the car window at traffic lights. And keep knocking, despite 100% negative body language that "you will NOT be getting anything from this car's occupants".
...your carrier bags at the supermarket are counted by the bag packer, recorded on your receipt, and then 10 yards further on they are counted again by the security guard and the receipt stamped with "delivered".
..."fairness" creams outsell tanning creams by infinity %
...Bryan Adams Rock Anthems play in supermarkets, swiftly followed by a bit of Bhangra.
...babies play on the central reservations of dual carriageways without being carted off by social services.
...slums spring up 20 yards from 5 * international hotels.
..."Health & Safety" is something for someone else to worry about. Now let me get on with welding this thing right over some agent's head, standing in bare feet on a metal ladder.
...the cleaning company pays its staff to wash the ornamental pebbles inside the office (gather them up, dunk them in a bucket, put them back again).
...in a free association test, "World Cup" means cricket not foopball.
Yes, I'm in India again. Now, and for 3 days only.
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
InDemand
The last two days at work have been quite satisfying - actually doing some proper training to some proper delegates, rather than just keeping an eye on other people training. I was told to expect a group of delegates who had already had a week's worth of training in our e-learning developer, but instead was told that they'd all moved on to new roles so I had some fresh raw recruits. Wonderful. So instead of a 2-day refresher I had to do the full "start from the beginning" version. It went fine and the delegates seemed delighted with me and the system (warm fuzzy feeling inside now) and once they get it up and running on their live IDs rather than just the training one we used this week, I hope it all goes smoothly for them.
After work I've managed to do a bit of shopping, en route back to the hotel each night. Janpath yesterday to pick up the Choli (Sari blouse) that I'd given to a tailor to make up, tonight I went to Haldiram's for Indian sweets (yummy) for the RTO concert and others, plus a brief stop in Connaught Place - THE big hub of New Delhi. India Gate may be the "landscape" hub, but CP is the shopping hub. Last time I was in Delhi we stopped briefly in CP to find lunch and look at shops, but it seemed horrendously busy as the whole centre (actually quite open) was being dug up for some reason, and all the traffic was massively crammed in. It just looked shabby and dusty and not very impressive. This time, I've been to CP twice, both times at night, and it is much improved. Not busy, lots of shops which look worth a visit (although no time for them this trip, really) and not too many panhandlers. Hanna and I did make impulse-purchases of plastic Auto Rickshaw cars with pull-back action. Yippee!
The final minutes of my Internet access are counting down, so anything more I write will be from home.
Goodbye again India!
PS - on my way back to the hotel from work tonight I got a call from my manager - would I be able to do another short trip to Mumbai before the end of December? Decision time.
After work I've managed to do a bit of shopping, en route back to the hotel each night. Janpath yesterday to pick up the Choli (Sari blouse) that I'd given to a tailor to make up, tonight I went to Haldiram's for Indian sweets (yummy) for the RTO concert and others, plus a brief stop in Connaught Place - THE big hub of New Delhi. India Gate may be the "landscape" hub, but CP is the shopping hub. Last time I was in Delhi we stopped briefly in CP to find lunch and look at shops, but it seemed horrendously busy as the whole centre (actually quite open) was being dug up for some reason, and all the traffic was massively crammed in. It just looked shabby and dusty and not very impressive. This time, I've been to CP twice, both times at night, and it is much improved. Not busy, lots of shops which look worth a visit (although no time for them this trip, really) and not too many panhandlers. Hanna and I did make impulse-purchases of plastic Auto Rickshaw cars with pull-back action. Yippee!
The final minutes of my Internet access are counting down, so anything more I write will be from home.
Goodbye again India!
PS - on my way back to the hotel from work tonight I got a call from my manager - would I be able to do another short trip to Mumbai before the end of December? Decision time.
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Final stage of the Road Trip
On the way out of Agra we stopped off at Sikandra, Emperor Akbar's tomb. 
On my previous road trip a year ago we had been stopped from going into Sikandra by The Guide - just had to peer through the railings. This time it was nice to go inside and see what I missed.
The contrast with other tombs is impressive. It's very simple, calm and almost minimal.
Except for this bit of ornamentation, at the entrance to the tomb. 
Also unusual was the fact that we could actually go down to his tomb, which was a fairly simple white marble tomb in a huge open, dark room with plain white walls and the dome ceiling, with an impressive echo. There's just one light, an elaborate metal lamp all cut out prettily. No photos inside.
Walking around the outside of the tomb we saw that one of the 4 gates is falling into ruin. Strange, considering that the others are apparently well maintained.
The parkland around the tomb within the walls is considerably below the level of the paths and deer graze.
And monkeys frolic:
Then we got back on the road home. We stopped at the Maharaja's Hotel - same as the last trip I did. 
Very disconcertingly our driver decided not to drive past the place then double back at the next suitable u-turn point in the road (there was a central reservation). Instead he transferred over to the other side of the road BEFORE the restaurant, and drove for half a mile or so the wrong way down the dual carriageway. Hanna and I just sat and looked at the road ahead in stunned silence. It's so Wrong that doing that isn't unusual over here. But I can't see how they can change - the rules have been bent so far over the years that they've broken now.
It's very hard to get traffic photos as generally a motorcyclist or cyclist or camel will get in the way. I got this one of a load of lorries though:
All the lorries (mostly) are the same size and shape. They are all hand-painted rather than professionally lettered and most of them also get decked out in tinsel and flowers and dangly tassels.
The final photo I took of the weekend was this - I've been trying to get a good shot of a gas man every time I've been in India - and finally spotted a good one whilst we were waiting at some traffic lights. Result!
We got back to Delhi in daylight, and then went out for a quick shopping trip to Janpath and Connaught Place. As we had said goodbye to the driver (with a tip) we caught an autorickshaw for the short trip. Which was fine and surprisingly not scary. Either we are desensitised to danger now or there is something reassuring about sitting in a tiny metal and fabric scooter edging through the rush hour traffic.
We caught the rickshaw there and ended up just walking back. In the dark. Down an unpavemented road past a political gathering (not a demonstration and definitely nothing near a riot, but still we walked past on the other side). Hotel, unpack, cup-a-soup, bed.
On my previous road trip a year ago we had been stopped from going into Sikandra by The Guide - just had to peer through the railings. This time it was nice to go inside and see what I missed.
The contrast with other tombs is impressive. It's very simple, calm and almost minimal.
Except for this bit of ornamentation, at the entrance to the tomb. 
Also unusual was the fact that we could actually go down to his tomb, which was a fairly simple white marble tomb in a huge open, dark room with plain white walls and the dome ceiling, with an impressive echo. There's just one light, an elaborate metal lamp all cut out prettily. No photos inside.Walking around the outside of the tomb we saw that one of the 4 gates is falling into ruin. Strange, considering that the others are apparently well maintained.
The parkland around the tomb within the walls is considerably below the level of the paths and deer graze.
And monkeys frolic:
Then we got back on the road home. We stopped at the Maharaja's Hotel - same as the last trip I did. 
Very disconcertingly our driver decided not to drive past the place then double back at the next suitable u-turn point in the road (there was a central reservation). Instead he transferred over to the other side of the road BEFORE the restaurant, and drove for half a mile or so the wrong way down the dual carriageway. Hanna and I just sat and looked at the road ahead in stunned silence. It's so Wrong that doing that isn't unusual over here. But I can't see how they can change - the rules have been bent so far over the years that they've broken now.It's very hard to get traffic photos as generally a motorcyclist or cyclist or camel will get in the way. I got this one of a load of lorries though:
All the lorries (mostly) are the same size and shape. They are all hand-painted rather than professionally lettered and most of them also get decked out in tinsel and flowers and dangly tassels.The final photo I took of the weekend was this - I've been trying to get a good shot of a gas man every time I've been in India - and finally spotted a good one whilst we were waiting at some traffic lights. Result!
We got back to Delhi in daylight, and then went out for a quick shopping trip to Janpath and Connaught Place. As we had said goodbye to the driver (with a tip) we caught an autorickshaw for the short trip. Which was fine and surprisingly not scary. Either we are desensitised to danger now or there is something reassuring about sitting in a tiny metal and fabric scooter edging through the rush hour traffic.We caught the rickshaw there and ended up just walking back. In the dark. Down an unpavemented road past a political gathering (not a demonstration and definitely nothing near a riot, but still we walked past on the other side). Hotel, unpack, cup-a-soup, bed.
More Agra
We had breakfast, packed and checked out of the Trident Hilton. Our next stop was the Red Fort in Agra. Dodged the guides and went around by ourselves.
This room is where Shah Jahan, who had the Taj Mahal built when his wife died in childbirth, was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb. The cruel irony is that is has a fantastic view over the river to the Taj Mahal. 
This room is where Shah Jahan, who had the Taj Mahal built when his wife died in childbirth, was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb. The cruel irony is that is has a fantastic view over the river to the Taj Mahal. 
Taj Mahal
We arrived in Agra in the early evening, just as the sun set. We had a moment of concern as Hanna read her guidebook which said that the Taj Mahal is closed on Mondays (argh!) but the driver reassured us that it was talking rubbish and it was actually closed on Fridays (makes more sense). Book goes down in our estimation (I'd thought it was a good one before).
Too tired after early mornings to do anything in the evening beyond dinner, showers and an early night, with a quick call back home which was lovely even if I did manage to mess up.
Well before dawn on Monday morning, we dragged ourselves out of our beds and I made use of the time difference to call back to the UK properly for a short chat. We met the driver at the appointed time (5.45am!!!) and drove the km or so to the Taj Mahal parking lot, where we contracted a cycle rickshaw (actually the driver did the negotiations, we just got on and held on tight). I wondered if I should have lent him my cycle light (I brought it so I could see the pietra dura inside the mausoleum - there are some amazing marbles which glow when you shine a torch directly on them).
We bought our tickets (Rs 750) and went through the security scanners. You can't take anything electrical apart from cameras in the complex. Mobile phones etc. are definite no-nos. Also no food or drink except the bottle of water that they give you with your ticket (and you need the shoe covers too which are rubbish but save you having to take off your shoes when the marble is early-morning chilly or mid-day sizzling).
Photos:
Sun rising.
Yamuna river very early (boatman being picturesque):
Lawn roller or spiker or something: 
Pod People with green feet:
This guy was very keen to get the perfect shot... I don't think it worked though.
In case anyone was in any doubt, the Mausoleum is the Taj Mahal, and it's pretty big and white and has domes on it and generally everyone around is pointing their cameras at it:
One of many "money shots":
And another one: 
And another one: 
Hanna and I were pretty efficient at swapping cameras so we each ended up of photos of the other quite consistently.
During this bit, we got mobbed by a group of young Indian men who wanted to have their photos taken with us and the Taj Mahal. Well actually I drifted to one side and started taking photos of Hanna being mobbed (sorry Hanna!)
Overall we probably posed for 15 photos in the same place. At least we got out before this lot arrived:
The gate house:
We left and did a little bit of shopping (resisted urge to spend money on tourist things) and then found our rickshaw driver:
and headed back to the hotel. It's had a makeover since last time (the lobby and bar anyway).
Too tired after early mornings to do anything in the evening beyond dinner, showers and an early night, with a quick call back home which was lovely even if I did manage to mess up.
Well before dawn on Monday morning, we dragged ourselves out of our beds and I made use of the time difference to call back to the UK properly for a short chat. We met the driver at the appointed time (5.45am!!!) and drove the km or so to the Taj Mahal parking lot, where we contracted a cycle rickshaw (actually the driver did the negotiations, we just got on and held on tight). I wondered if I should have lent him my cycle light (I brought it so I could see the pietra dura inside the mausoleum - there are some amazing marbles which glow when you shine a torch directly on them).
We bought our tickets (Rs 750) and went through the security scanners. You can't take anything electrical apart from cameras in the complex. Mobile phones etc. are definite no-nos. Also no food or drink except the bottle of water that they give you with your ticket (and you need the shoe covers too which are rubbish but save you having to take off your shoes when the marble is early-morning chilly or mid-day sizzling).
Photos:
Sun rising.
Yamuna river very early (boatman being picturesque):
Lawn roller or spiker or something: 
Pod People with green feet:
This guy was very keen to get the perfect shot... I don't think it worked though.
In case anyone was in any doubt, the Mausoleum is the Taj Mahal, and it's pretty big and white and has domes on it and generally everyone around is pointing their cameras at it:
One of many "money shots":
And another one: 
And another one: 
Hanna and I were pretty efficient at swapping cameras so we each ended up of photos of the other quite consistently.During this bit, we got mobbed by a group of young Indian men who wanted to have their photos taken with us and the Taj Mahal. Well actually I drifted to one side and started taking photos of Hanna being mobbed (sorry Hanna!)
Overall we probably posed for 15 photos in the same place. At least we got out before this lot arrived:
The gate house:
We left and did a little bit of shopping (resisted urge to spend money on tourist things) and then found our rickshaw driver:
and headed back to the hotel. It's had a makeover since last time (the lobby and bar anyway).
Fatehpur Sikri
Abandoned Mughal city - lovely red sandstone and the sun setting.
See last year for comments! (India 2005 blog)
See last year for comments! (India 2005 blog)
Jaipur to Agra
Another day, another road trip. After our stop at Royal Gaitor, we headed onto the road to Agra.
Not my favourite road.
It was technically a dual carriageway, for at least some of the distance (about 200km in total), but the sort without much in the way of road markings or anything in the way of a central reservation. And a lot of really really bad road surface.
It's not the narrowness or the unmarkedness or even the bumpyness - it's the fact that despite all the -ness, the drivers of all the modes of transport on the road refuse to make any accommodation for that fact.
Calm, breathe, try not to squeak as we miss another lorry by a few inches.
And no matter how unpleasant the drive, it was humbling as ever to look at the homes by the side of the road.
After we left Fatehpur Sikri (en route to Agra) we went past a road accident. A Jeep had hit a motorbike and I think the rider died. I try not to think of the image of him lying on the road. What was also scary was to consider the option that he wasn't actually dead, but that all the bystanders were just standing there watching, not doing anything to help. The ambulance was en route but the traffic was heavy. These roads are cruel and I wish they weren't.
Not my favourite road.
It was technically a dual carriageway, for at least some of the distance (about 200km in total), but the sort without much in the way of road markings or anything in the way of a central reservation. And a lot of really really bad road surface.
It's not the narrowness or the unmarkedness or even the bumpyness - it's the fact that despite all the -ness, the drivers of all the modes of transport on the road refuse to make any accommodation for that fact.
Calm, breathe, try not to squeak as we miss another lorry by a few inches.
And no matter how unpleasant the drive, it was humbling as ever to look at the homes by the side of the road.
After we left Fatehpur Sikri (en route to Agra) we went past a road accident. A Jeep had hit a motorbike and I think the rider died. I try not to think of the image of him lying on the road. What was also scary was to consider the option that he wasn't actually dead, but that all the bystanders were just standing there watching, not doing anything to help. The ambulance was en route but the traffic was heavy. These roads are cruel and I wish they weren't.
Am(b)er Fort
Early morning (earlier than yesterday) as the driver recommended that we get to Amber Fort early to bag a place in the queue for elephants. The "b" is silent, apparently in Amber.
It's about 10k outside Jaipur but the roads were relatively clear - apart from a few late-arriving elephants - they have to walk from Jaipur every morning, and they knock off at lunchtime apparently so they don't wear out.
We stopped by the side of the road to see the view across the "lake":
Then queued up (not very long - good advice from the driver. We got there at about 8.10am and queued for about 10 mins - by which time the queue was about 3 times as long) and clambered aboard our elephant. Luckily for dignity they have a high platform you can easily step aboard from.
Then up it climbed. It was a fixed price (good - no haggling - at least until it came to the tip) and although it was rather bumpy we didn't fall off.
As we were both onboard this was the best picture I could take of "me on an elephant":
Although we did buy pictures taken by touts which turned out OK. Not scanned in yet of course.
At the top they deposited us on another high platform where the elephants would then pose for photos again.
Amber Fort is very beautiful - many elegant shapes and pretty gardens.
(with a view up to another fort higher up the hill - we didn't go up there as we had a long way to go later in the day).
Entrance gate:
A hall of mirrors:
View over the courtyard with the elephants:
Central courtyard:
Some mad scaffolding with workers perching:
And finally, a view of the remaining lake (it's not that long after the monsoon, will be very very dry by May).
It's about 10k outside Jaipur but the roads were relatively clear - apart from a few late-arriving elephants - they have to walk from Jaipur every morning, and they knock off at lunchtime apparently so they don't wear out.
We stopped by the side of the road to see the view across the "lake":
Then queued up (not very long - good advice from the driver. We got there at about 8.10am and queued for about 10 mins - by which time the queue was about 3 times as long) and clambered aboard our elephant. Luckily for dignity they have a high platform you can easily step aboard from.
Then up it climbed. It was a fixed price (good - no haggling - at least until it came to the tip) and although it was rather bumpy we didn't fall off.As we were both onboard this was the best picture I could take of "me on an elephant":
Although we did buy pictures taken by touts which turned out OK. Not scanned in yet of course.At the top they deposited us on another high platform where the elephants would then pose for photos again.
Amber Fort is very beautiful - many elegant shapes and pretty gardens.
(with a view up to another fort higher up the hill - we didn't go up there as we had a long way to go later in the day).Entrance gate:
A hall of mirrors:
View over the courtyard with the elephants:
Central courtyard:
Some mad scaffolding with workers perching:
And finally, a view of the remaining lake (it's not that long after the monsoon, will be very very dry by May).
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